I was in New Delhi a few days ago and had the opportunity to visit the Rashtrapati Bhawan. It is a huge building and it is an awe-inspiring piece of architecture. But when I tried to capture it on my camera the result was really not what I expected. I thought to myself” This looked much better in real”. Well obviously it did not look good in my camera. What else should I have expected? Obviously the building is huge to be captured into the frame of my semi-pro DSLR. So what should I have done to get the photo right?

I could have either used a super expensive wide angle lens or I could have used the Panorama feature to take this picture. Most digital cameras including the midsized point had shoot have this mode called the panorama mode. This mode essentially lets you take multiple photos and stitch them together to create a single photograph.

Here is how you go about creating a Panorama picture. Firstly you will require a tripod. The tripod is necessary to stabilise the camera because if your photos are misaligned, then the entire effort comes a cropper. You can take panoramic shots even if you do not have a tripod (I will come to that later) but it is better that you have a tripod (If you are serious about photography, invest in a good tripod, it is worth it, read my earlier post on tripods). Also ensure that your tripod has a bubble which will show the alignment of the camera in relation to the surface.

Once you have this ready, point the camera towards left, keeping the camera in a direct line to your left shoulder. Now compose the picture keeping in mind the rule of thirds. Either lower your camera so that you will have big sky shot or shift it upwards so that you will have a rich landscape shot. Also ensure that you have the sun towards your back. Once you have this entire ready, click the shot.

Now mover your camera to the right ensuring that there is a one third overlaps between the earlier photo and this photo. Once again release the shutter. Continue this process till you have captured the entire landscape. Depending on the size of the landscape you may require anywhere between 3 to 18 such pictures.

Once you have all the pictures you just upload them to your computer and use the photo stitch feature on the proprietary software that comes with the camera and create your panorama.

If you do not have tripods try this method. Wear the camera around your neck and hold it out straight till the strap is taut. Then compose the photo as mentioned before and when you have to move rotate your feet instead of rotating the camera. This way you are using your body as a human tripod. Although this is not a very good method, it will suffice if you are left with no alternatives.

I hope you find this article useful. Please come back for more tips and trick on photography.

Depth of field is one of the oldest tricks in photography. It is a techniques used by photographers to bring everything in the frame right from the closest object to the farthest object in clear focus. This means that both the foreground and background are in clear focus. This technique is used most commonly in landscape photography and it can result in stunning photos. This article will delve into the intricacies of this technique.

The depth of field or DOF is dependent on three basic factors:

1.  The focal length

2.  The aperture size

3.  The object on which you focus in your composition

Let us discuss each of this in detail.

Focal Length

As a general rule, wider the angle of focus, greater is the depth of field. So it is appropriate to use a wide angle lens if you have one. Otherwise set the zoom lens to its widest range. The ideal focal length to get the perfect DOF is around 24 mm. This figure has been arrived at after lot of experimentation with the 35 mm format. This would mean that you will require a lens which has a focal length of 18 at its widest range. This is because the DSLR’s (unless you are using the full format DSLR’s) has a sensor size smaller that the 35mm film format. This alters the relationship between the camera and the lens. A regular DSLR like Nikon D70 or the Canon EOS 400 has a sensor surface area of around 22 sqmm. Therefore the focal length of the lens will have to be multiplied by about 1.5 to get the concordant focal length of a 35mm format. For eg, a 18 mm lens in the DSLR will translate into a 27mm lens in 35mm format.

Since most of us use the normal DLSR’s the 18-55mm kit lens that accompanies most cameras will do. If you have a 10-22mm lens it is better.

However if you are using a digital point and shoot then there is a problem. The range of focal length provided by most point and shoot is in the range of 34-114mm. This focal length is a little narrow angle to get a good DOF. Therefore you will need a wide angle adapter for point and shoot cameras. Most cameras have a wide angle adaptor which can be used to remedy this problem. Therefore no matter what camera you use, remember this figure of 24 mm. This is the ideal focal length required for the DOF experience.

Lens Aperture

As a general rule, larger the aperture lesser is the depth of field. So as a corollary if you want a greater DOF you should set your camera’s aperture to the smallest possible value. I personally prefer to use whatever is the smallest aperture which the lens would allow. Generally most cameras will allow a f stop of f/22. There are two methods of doing this. You can either use the aperture priority or manual mode. In aperture priority mode, you set the aperture and the camera automatically selects the shutter speed depending on the light conditions. I personally prefer to use the manual mode as this gives me a greater control over the camera. In the manual mode, you have the option to set both the aperture and shutter speed and hence I prefer to use this mode.

Since the aperture is going to be small, the shutter speed will have to be slow. Generally speaking if the f stop is f/22 then you will need to keep the shutter speed at 1/8 or even less. Therefore it is prudent to use a tripod to prevent camera shake.

Set focus manually

This is the last and most important aspect of getting greater DOF. Turn off the autofocus and set the focus manually. Now focus on a spot that is one third the distance between the foreground and background. For eg, if you were taking a photo of a flower with a mountain in the background, focus on a point which is one third the distance between the flower and the mountain. It may be difficult if you do not have an object to focus on, but mostly you should be able to find something to focus on. Some serious photographer will go to the extent of carrying many props for this specific effect; some even carry indigenous plants for this purpose.

However when you initially look through the view finder, both the foreground and background will look out of focus. This is because the aperture is wide open and closes to the smaller value only when you release the shutter. Therefore most DSLR’s come equipped with a DOF preview button. When you press this button, the aperture becomes small and you will find both the foreground and background to be in focus. Mind you that when you press the DOF preview button, the image will become darker, because less light is entering the lens.

By using the above three methods you should be able to get the perfect landscape shots.

Digital Cameras require a lot of power to keep them going and if the power runs out then they are as good as nothing, unlike the conventional film cameras which can work even without power. Therefore paying attention to this small but very significant aspect is vital to ensure that you do not miss out on the all important photo opportunity.

Therefore as I keep harping always carry an extra battery with you. It will save a lot of problems for you. Here are a few tips to keep your camera powered all the time:

1.  When travelling always carry your charger and spare battery. Double check it because I have many times inadvertently left back one of them and have been in many difficult situations.

2. Each night take out the battery from your camera and put it on charge. Replace this battery with your fully charged spare battery. Repeat this procedure everyday and your camera will never run of juice. If you have a particularly demanding day, then the extra battery will be very handy. But remember to charge both batteries once you are back in your room.

3.  Make the best use of car chargers. Most camera chargers have adapters which can be fitted into the cigarette lighter socket in cars. Make the best use of this feature. This feature will come in handy when you are on an extended road trips and hikes in the forests. It is possible that you carry a lot of batteries to last the entire trip, but then it will be awfully expensive and you will need to carry lots of batteries. Therefore using the cigarette charger is a useful option in these cases. So effectively you are charging your batteries while driving rather than in the night while sleeping.

4.  However in the unlikely situation that your charger does not have an adaptor to fit your car, then you can buy those bulky AC to DC invertors. These are heavy but can be useful.

5. And finally where you do not have access to your car as well like a long trekking trip or hike, then there is the sun to charge up your batteries. You will find solar chargers which are portable and will charge up your batteries in about six hours. However these solar chargers are quite costly and can set you back by around $400.

So whatever be the power problem you face on your road trips you always have a solution.

Taking photos with the film cameras used be a tiresome affair with the final results only apparent after the film has been developed and prints taken, but it is not so with the modern digital cameras. The modern digital cameras have built in LCD screens which allow you to see your photos immediately. This is a huge plus, but despite this many of us don’t get the perfect picture we all look for. By paying attention to the following tips you should be able to create good photos.

1. Be Imaginative: Use your imagination to compose your photographs. Try out unusual angles and views. Do not always focuses at the same level, try focusing on your subject form a higher or lower angle. This can provide a rather dramatic effect to your pictures.

2. Be aware of the background: In focusing on the subject, do not forget the background. Obviously you do not want a tree or zooming vehicle behind your subject spoiling the picture. Also look for any distractions in the background. By moving your subject a couple of steps is all that is required to get the perfect picture. Also pay attention to Bokeh (This is the term that refers to the foreground background differentiation). By using a bigger aperture you will be able to achieve the perfect Bokeh. The higher aperture will make the background blurred while bringing the foreground in sharp focus. Use this feature and you will get good pictures.

3. Use available light intelligently: Photography is after all painting with light and light remain the most important feature in photography. If possible shun the flash altogether and use natural light. The light from the flash is often very harsh and makes the skin look pale. If the ambient light is enough to read then it is enough to take a good picture. If the light conditions do not allow you to take pictures without flash, then try bouncing the flash of a white wall or white surface. A common technique used by professional photographers is by placing a white sheet or paper at an angle of 60 degrees from the subject. Then focus at the subject with a three quarter view so that the flash light bounces of the white sheet and illuminates the subject’s face. Alternatively if you are shooting indoors then move your subject near a window and use the natural light to light up your subjects face.

4. Focus carefully. Focus is the all important feature which is missed by many photographers. Do not just aim your focus at the subject’s face, try various views, there quarter and side views are exceptional views to try out. More importantly the three quarter view will also slim your subject, another big plus.

5.  Here is a golden rule, once you have composed the photo and brought your subject in focus, take a couple of steps towards the subject. This will fill up the frame with your subjects face and give a nice effect to your photo. Pay attention to this tip, this is probably what will give you the best results.

6. Pay attention to the rule of thirds. I have covered it in my earlier posts. This is an important rule which you must always keep in mind when composing your pictures. Whenever you are shooting a group of people, find an imaginary line through the center of the group and move a little to side of this imaginary line. This will give you good results.

By following these simple tips you will be able to get some really good pictures to show off.

Many good photos have been ruined by the dreaded red eye. Red eye is the reddish tinge which is seen in your subjects. This is caused because the light from the camera’s flash bounces off the retina of the subject and causes the reddish tinge. If you were photographing your pet then it will lead to the green glow from the retina of your pet. Although many photo editing software allow you to correct this problem it is better to avoid it all together. By following the following methods you should be able to prevent the dreaded red eye effect.

1. All cameras come with a inbuilt red eye reduction. The red eye reduction tool is nothing but a light source which is present near the lens. What this tool does is before the shutter is released it fires a series of light flashes which constrict the pupil thus preventing the red eye effect. In most cameras the red eye tool is turned on by default, and it is best to keep it turned on at all times except in the bright sunlight. However it is also possible to turn it off, but I will advice it to keep it on all the time.

2. By using flash intelligently you should be able be to avoid red eye altogether. Do not direct the flash directly at your subject. It will be better to bounce it off a white wall or any white surface. By bouncing the light of a white surface the light does not directly fall on the subjects eye and this prevents the red eye.

Apart from the above mentioned techniques many editing software like Photoshop and the proprietary software which come with the camera can remove the red eye. The red eye removal tool is automatic in most of these software, but the automatic mode is not very effective and it is better to do it manually. However doing it manually has it pitfalls. What happens when you have to manually correct it? The eye of the subject can have a glazed look by manually correcting it. However this is the best that you can do to correct the red eye.

Hopefully by using the above mentioned techniques you should be able to prevent or correct the dreaded red eye, but I once again repeat that it is best to prevent the red eye altogether in the first place.

A question I am often asked by beginners in photography is how much memory do I need? The answer to this question will depend on a lot of factors. Let us consider all of the one by one.

1. The resolution of the camera: This is probably the most important factor that will determine the size of memory required. If you have a 2-3 MP camera (which is very unlikely unless you are using a phone camera as almost all digital cameras today are more than 5 MP resolution). If you are using a basic 5 MP camera I will advise you to use a 1 GB card. You can also use a 500MB card but the difference in cost between a 500 MB and 1 GB card is negligible and what’s the harm in using a higher memory, you will be able to store more photos. If however you are using a pro or semi pro DSLR, then you should consider a 4GB card as a standard.

2. The quality of the picture you intend to take: All cameras allow you to set the resolution of the picture it takes. Lower the resolution the higher the number of photos that you can store in your card but remember that lower resolution means poorer quality of photos.

3. How many photos do you want to take? Are you going for a long vacation with lot of photo ops? Then choose a card with higher memory. A 4 GB card is ideal for long vacations. Apart from this the size of the memory card you choose will also be guided by your proximity to a computer. Can to download your photos to a computer regularly. If yes, then you can manage with a card of smaller size, but if you do not have access to a computer then it is better to have a card with higher memory.

4. If you’re serious about photography always carry an extra card with you (I carry three cards each of 4 GB). Of course you will not need this kind of memory unless you are a serious photographer, but at least carry one extra card with you.

5. Today memory cards are very cheap and you will find cards with 16 GB of memory for as less as $100, so if you think that it will be good investment then you should consider buying a higher memory card, it will be very useful to you.

And finally a tip on storage of your cards: Keep your cards away from direct sunlight and dust. Also keep them away from moisture and strong magnetic fields. It is best to store your cards in the pouch given along with it.

Have you ever wondered at the beauty of a bee sitting on a flower or the dew drops on the grass early in the mornings, then you are in good company. This form of photography has many enthusiasts and this form of photography is called Macro photography. Macro photography is a form of photography where the scale of images is 1:1. This means that the object in the photo is the same size as it is on ground. Usually in a regular photo the subject is scaled down in size but in Macro mode the subject looks the same size as it is in nature.

The Macro mode is a very fascinating mode of photography but is quite difficult genre to perfect. For one this mode of photography requires a special lens for it. This is because by using the regular lenses it is not possible to focus closer that 2-3 three inches. And to take such extreme close ups you will need to get very close to the subject. Hence you need special lenses for this. The common focal lengths which are used are the 60mm and 100mm lenses. Apart from these lenses there are some telephoto lenses which are capable of macro mode at the extreme of zoom, for eg the sigma 70-300mm telephoto lens I have is capable of macro photography at focal lengths in excess of 200mm. But this feature is more useful to take close up photos of distant objects like when I am out shooting in the wild it helps me to take excellent close-up’s of animals and birds in a forest. It is not possible to take extreme close-up of close by objects using this lens. Therefore I prefer to use the specialized macro lenses (My preferred lens for this purpose is the Cannon 100mm Macro).

Now here are a few tips to producing excellent macro photos:

1.  The best time to take these kinds of photos, especially the nature shots is in the early morning. At this time the lighting is perfect, the dew is still fresh and the colour reproduction is superb. So take a walk in the park early in the morning and you will find ample opportunities for excellent macro shots.

2.  Be very observant of the world around you, there is no requirement to wait for the big occasions, everyday life is filled with photo ops. The patterns on a tree trunk or an ant carrying twice it weight are all excellent photo shoots and try to capture them.

3.  Pay attention to lighting. Since you will be shooting at very close distances, you may need to use the flash. However using the flash can give a bluish tinge to the photo or may lead to glare so if you have use a polarizer. Alternatively if it is possible to manipulate the position of the object(like a stamp or coin) then place it on a white background, it will give a good dramatic effect.

4.  Pay great attention to focus. If you do not focus properly then the entire photo is ruined. So pay great attention to this fact.  Also keep in mind this fact that you will need to keep the shutter speed high (I prefer 1/125 and above) and aperture (f/4.5 or f/5.6) big. This is to blur out the background and provide crystal clear shots of the subject.

5.  Since the macro lenses are costly you can use one of the close-up kits which are sold in the market. These are actually magnifying glasses of different strengths and are screwed on your regular lenses. Although the image quality is not very good, they are OK for a person on a limited budget as you will get these macro kits at one tenth the price of a regular macro lens.

Macro photography is a very enjoyable form of photography and can become very addictive. Apart from this it can provide stunning results if done right.

Tripods are an important accessory which every serious photographer should have. This is because a tripod is of immense value in stabilizing the camera. Most often we do not realise the importance of stabilization of the camera, this is because most of us either shoot in bright daylight or employ a flash. But there will be many conditions where we will shoot under poor light conditions like at dusk or indoors. It may also be necessary to shoot without a flash. It is under these circumstances that a tripod is necessary.

But how does not having a tripod affect our photos?

In low light conditions, you or the camera Depending on whether you prefer the manual mode or auto mode) will have to choose a long shutter speed, somewhere in the range of ½ or ¼ or 1/8 sec. These values may seem to be long enough for you, but when you consider that the normal photograph taken in bright daylight has a shutter speed of 1/250 or more, this is a very long shutter speed. Now when we work at long shutter speeds then the shutter is open so much longer. So any shake or instability of the camera will lead to what is called a camera shake or blur. This leads to soft, fuzzy images. Once you increase the shutter speed to 1/15 or more, then even the slightest shake can blur the photograph. Even the simple act of pressing the shutter can shake the camera and lead to blur.

It is therefore necessary to use a tripod. Tripods are of different types. There are those huge solid tripods which can be used for any task, but these are usually bulky and are used for static photo shoots. So for travel purposes I either use a light weight pocket tripod or a monopod. I will describe monopods later. Let us now talk about pocket tripods.

Pocket tripods are small and light weight and can be easily carried in your backpack or camera bag. I have this tripod which is so small that I can carry it in my camera bag, although it is not very sturdy. There are many manufacturers of tripods who produce many different tripods, but whichever you buy take a look at the following parameters before you buy:

1. The head of the tripod: This is the most important part of the tripod. It is the part where your camera attaches, so ensure that it fits well and is sturdy. Never compromise on this aspect.

2. The size: If you are reading this article you are probably interested in a pocket tripod. So look at the size of the tripod and see if it fits in your bag. If it does not then there is not much use buying it and you should look for alternatives which fit your camera bag.

3. And finally have a look at the build of the tripod. You will come across many tripods in the market which are cheap, but they lack the build quality. Obviously you will not find the same build quality as that of a proper tripod but it can’t be so poor as well.

This was a brief description of pocket tripods. I will talk about travel tripods in my next article.

The world of photography is today dominated by colour everywhere. You will hardly see a black and white photograph you see today and only a few serious photographers do this full time. So why did black and white photography decline?

The 50 and 60’s were the high points in B&W photography, but with the advent of colour films and now DSLR’s B&W photos became rare. This is probably because people like colour and B&W photos may look rather drab.

But in my opinion no colour photo can capture moods the way B&W can capture. I think B&W photography is most suited to portrait photography. B&W can honestly capture the different mood of the model or the subject with minimum distortion. It also depicts the fine lines, deep burrows and every minute detail on the face more clearly than colour. But most importantly is gives a surreal look to the whole photograph.

In today’s world of Photoshop and other powerful Image editing software, many people consider B&W photography to be redundant. They say why take a photo in B&W, when it can easily be converted to B&W by simply choosing grey scale or editing in Hue and Saturation. B&W photography is not just grey scale on Photoshop, there is much more to it. It requires the right composition, exposure and orientation to take a good B&W photo. And remember B&W photography is very unforgiving. It is much easier to touch up colour photos, even those with fundamental flaws in composition and exposure, but B&W photography does not afford us this option. Hence we need to get the basics right or else the photo is spoiled.

Here are a few tips for great black and white photography.

1. Compose carefully: As I told composition is the key. Keep in mind the tenor and mood of the photograph and accordingly position your subject.

2. Use light intelligently: Light is the essence of photography, but more so in B&W. Use the available light intelligently. I prefer to use natural light as much as possible, but in the absence of natural lights, I fine soft over head lights to be a better source of illumination that a flash light.

3. Shoot at a high ISO: This is something many people will not mention, but I have had stunning results with this technique. Set the ISO level to 400 or above. It achieves two things, one it allows you to shoot in low light conditions, and secondly it adds noise to the photo. Noise is the digital equivalent of granules on a photograph. Excess noise is usually not recommended in a colour photograph, but in B&W excess noise can do wonders to the aesthetics of the photo.

This was a brief description on B&W photography. Come back for more photography tips and tricks.

Have you seen this before

Landscape photography is a favourite genre amongst many photographers, including me and if composed and executed properly it can give astounding results. In fact there are so many top photographers who have contributed so much to the genre of landscape photography that it has now grown to have a life of its own. Anyways leaving aside all this, what is landscape photography. Landscape photography is simply photography of landscapes. It could be a snow clad mountain, a meandering river, a beautiful rainbow, a crimson red sunset or a placid lake. Whatever be the scene, there are certain rules or rather guidelines you must keep in mind when you take those stunning pics.

1. The Angle of view:  This is a major criterion. If you want real good photos, then you will need to get as much of the landscape in your frame. This can get troublesome if you are using a point and shoot or a standard zoom lens. This is because these lenses have a narrow angle of view and hence will not be able to capture the entire landscape in your frame. In a point and shoot there is not much you can do except use the panorama mode (I will talk in detail about the panorama mode). If you own a DSLR, then you can use one of the specialized wide angle lenses. A good wide angle is the canon 10-22 mm lens which I use (Of course you can use it only with Cannon, but there are wide angle lenses available for all mounts. Just keep in mind you need a zoom in the range of 10-20 mm). The one disadvantage of this is that these are very expensive. If you are looking for a cheaper alternative, you can use any one of the wide angle adaptors. These are cheap, but the image quality is not so good. So it’s a trade off.

2. Time of shoot: This is very vital. The best time for landscape is either dawn or dusk. The natural lighting is just correct and provides the best result. The problem with bright day light is that it can produce a lot of glare, and can give your photos a washed out appearance. This can be rectified by using a circular polariser. However remember that using a CPL will reduce the amount of light entering the sensor by around two stops.

3. Get a subject in the foreground: As I had mentioned in my earlier article on rule of thirds, get a subject in the fore ground. This could be a tree, or boat or anything appropriate. This will give greater depth to your photos and make for a better composition.

4. Lastly this is a super trick to improve the appearance of you photos. Look for a road or meandering river and compose your picture in such a way that this road or river seems to either entering or leaving the photo. This gives a great aesthetic appeal to the photo.